Gompo Rock/Cove Rock

Introduction

Ilitye likaGompo / Gompo Rock — more commonly known today as Cove Rock — is a striking sandstone headland rising directly from the Indian Ocean coast near East London, South Africa. Located about 11 km southwest of the Buffalo River between Hickman’s River and Winterstrand, this remarkable formation is significant both for its natural beauty and its deep cultural and historical connections.

Cove Rock/Gompo Rock features prominently in the human history of East London. Evidence of

early human habitation, most likely Khoisan peoples, is present in the form of middens containing mussel and limpet remains and sherds of earthenware. Some of the earliest documentary evidence relating to Cove Rock can be traced back to at least the 17th Century to the wreck of the Dutch ship, the Stavenisse. Sailors from the ship were rescued off Cove Rock in 1687 by the crew of the Centaur.

In the log book of the Centaur, Cove Rock has been referred to as “Doodkist” or “coffin” because of its shape as seen from the sea (Pettman 1931:113).

Avu & Bengz.
We had the whole stretch of
the beach to ourselves

It is of significant spiritual and historical importance to the Xhosa people, particularly as the site where the prophet Makhanda (also known as Nxele) famously attempted to summon ancestors from the sea during the Frontier Wars.

A Site of Ancient Human Presence

Archaeological evidence shows that people — most likely the Khoisan — used the area long before written records. Shell middens, pottery fragments, and other remnants of early coastal life have been found here, pointing to centuries of human use.

Spiritual and Cultural Traditions

For local Xhosa communities, Gompo Rock has deep spiritual resonance. Traditional beliefs hold that ancestral water spirits called Abantu Bomlambo inhabit the water around the rock, and the roaring surf passing through its channels was thought to carry the voices of the ancestors.

In 1817, the Xhosa prophet Makhanda Nxele (sometimes anglicized as Makana) gathered people here in an attempt to demonstrate his spiritual power and inspire mass conversion to Christianity. According to oral tradition, he planned to summon ancestors from the sea in a dramatic display, but the event did not unfold as expected.

Today, some members of African Independent Churches — especially Zionist-type congregations — still come to the vicinity of the rock for baptisms and spiritual gatherings, inspired by beliefs in the sacred properties of water.

The rock remains standing, watching the sea, reminding us that this land has a long memory and that not all history is written in books.

Early European Records

The rock enters European records from at least the late 1600s. In 1687, sailors from the wrecked Dutch ship Stavenisse were rescued at the site by the crew of the Centaur. In the centaur’s logbook, the rock was nicknamed “Doodkist” (“coffin”) because of its suggestive silhouette from the sea.

Visiting Gompo Rock

Getting to the rock involves a scenic walk along the beach and dune paths. Though the closest access road is unpaved, the journey rewards visitors with beautiful views and a strong sense of place.

Access

Travel along the R72 towards Port Alfred. 

Take a left turn towards Cove Rock. Just before the entrance gate to Cove Rock estates, turn right onto a dirt road.

This was our point of no return,
with Bengz as our navigator

Travel a few kilometers along this road until one reaches a parking area to the right. Access to the beach is via the dunes. It is about a kilometer and half walk to the rock along the beach.

Our footprints in the sand